Bea Thompson, age 15, of Manchester, N.H., for her question:
WHEN DID THE SCOTTISH TARTAN ORIGINATE?
A tartan is a plaid cloth pattern that developed chiefly in Scotland. The design is made up of stripes of various widths and colors. The stripes cross at right angles against a solid color background.
The use of checkered tartan prints dates back to ancient times. The Irish, the Britons, the Caledonians of Scotland and the Celts of Europe all wore them.
Records show that the Scottish used tartan patterns extensively by the 1200s. Originally the patterns were used to identify the chief clan or family of an area.
The tartan design is called a sett. It may be made in any size, depending on the use of the cloth. Regardless of the size of the sett, the proportions of the stripes must be the same. The colors of a sett may vary in shades from pale to dark.
In Scotland, extra lines were added to some setts to show the wearer's rank. Early weavers colored the tartans with vegetable dyes. They kept a record of the exact design of a tartan by marking the number and col,or of every thread on a pattern stick.
Scottish Highlanders wear tartan kilts, which are knee length pleated skirts. A Highlander may also carry a plaid over his left shoulder. A plaid is a blanketlike mantle fastened at the shoulder with a brooch.
Other parts of the common Scottish costume include a pouch called a sporran which hangs in front of the kilt, a jacket called a doublet, and a cap called a bonnet.
The stockings are also often made of the tartan pattern. The shoes, called brogues, are always low cut.
Originally the kilt and the plaid were part of a single large piece of tartan cloth. The wearer folded the tartan lengthwise and gathered it around his waist with a belt. He threw the rest over his shoulder and pinned it.
Scottish Highlanders were able to wear the tartans over their heads during bad weather. And when sleeping outside, they were able to use them as blankets.
After the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745, the British Parliament banned the tartan and the use of Highland dress until 1782. Some old setts were lost, but many new ones were invented, especially about 1820.
Today the tartan is popular throughout the world, especially in the United States where people have Scottish ancestors.
While there is certainly no rigid rules for the use of tartans, many people like to wear prints that are associated with their names or ancestory.
Among the popular Scottish tartans are the Campbell, Ferguson, Graham, Grant, MacDuff, MacGregor, Macmillan, MacTavish, Murray, Robertson, Stewart and Sinclair.