Derek Schneider, age 15. of Pocatello, Ida., for his question:
WHEN DID THE SCOTTISH START WEARING TARTANS?
A tartan is a plaid cloth pattern that developed chiefly in Scotland. The design consists of strips of various widths and colors. Scottish literature first referred to the tartan in the 1200s.
Actually, checkered and plaid garments date back to ancient times. The Irish, the Britons, the Caledonians of Scotland and the Celts in Europe all wore them.
Originally, tartans in Scotland were associated with districts. Later, they were used to identify the chief clan or family of an area. Extra lines were added to some designs to show the wearer's rank.
A tartan design is called a sett. It may be made in any size, depending on the use of the cloth. Regardless of the size of the sett, the proportions of the stripes must be the same. The colors of a sett may vary in shade from dark to pale.
The design of a tartan consists of strips of various widths and colors. The stripes cross at right angles against a solid color background.
In the United States and Canada, the word tartan also means a cloth or a garment with a tartan design. The cloth is usually wool, but it may be of other materials.
A Scottish Highlander wears a tartan kilt, or knee length pleated skirt. He may carry a plaid over his left shoulder. A plaid is a blanket like mantle fastened at the shoulder with a brooch. Other parts of the costume include a sporran or pouch hanging in front of the kilt, a doublet or jacket and a bonnet or cap. The stockings may be of the tartan pattern and the brogues or shoes are low cut.
Early weavers colored the tartans with vegetable dyes. They kept a record of the exact design of a tartan by marking the number and color of every thread on a pattern stick.
Some of the best known clan tartans are the Campbell, MacGregor, MacTavish and Stewart.
Originally the kilt and the plaid were part of a single large piece of tartan cloth. The wearer folded the tartan lengthwise and gathered it around his waist with a belt. He threw the rest over his shoulder and pinned it.
In bad weather, the Highlander originally wore the tartan over his head and shoulders as a cloak. When sleeping outside, he used it as a blanket.
Today, the kilt and the plaid are worn separately.
After the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745, the British Parliament banned the tartan and the use of Highland dress until 1782. Some old setts were lost, but many new ones were invented, especially about 1820.
Today, the tartan is popular throughout the world, particularly in the United States where many people have Scottish ancestors.
There are no rigid rules for the use of a tartan, but a person usually wears one that is associated with his name or ancestry.